Like most things, I have taken my time standing up on a wave again. Learning the ever changing movement of the water, and trying to find the right spot to paddle into…not to mention triangulating to make sure I don’t drift off.  Paddle, paddle and rest… Conserve. These are the things I think about as I’m heading out.

Once over the first break, my heart starts beating fast with all the adrenaline. And I struggle to remember the mantras I’ve been repeating. I quickly arrive at a state of mind that is almost primal. Feeling the tide rise and fall beneath me is mesmerizing and it instantly calms me, but at the same time my senses are on hyper sensitive mode. It feels like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Now to get out there without getting in anyone’s way.

Laying face down and paddling out to the line up is so exciting I can hardly contain myself.  And it takes me back to the beginning. I come from a free diving family and have been in the Pacific Ocean all my life. It is truly my first and greatest love.

Paddling into to a wave and then actually catching it is a little surreal at first. I find myself in a state of shock for a second. Then I’m desperately trying to figure out if I’m going to go left or right on the wave.  And finally remembering to stand up!  Sometimes your going really fast and instinct says to stay low. Fighting thru all the static in my head and remembering to STAND UP is a big challenge. But when your flying thru the air standing on a wave, your truly “Sitting on top of the world.”

I can’t wait till I can turn to the Ocean and property thank her Hawaiian style.

Do whatever makes you happy, and do it today!

M